Spean Bridge
by
Russell Turner
The
omens were good: a week of uninterrupted blue skies and sunshine, and
– even better – I was off work and able to make the most of it.
Then a beautiful Friday evening journey with Heather down quiet roads
at the back of Loch Ness to Spean Bridge for the Autumn Weekend.
Gorgeous.
And
there we met Roy who complained it was too hot. Within minutes the
clouds began to gather and darken and by the end of the evening it
was throwing it down. Undoubtedly, the man is a rain god. The
Aultguish downpour was probably his fault too.
By
then we were too full of drink and food to care. The kitchen half of
the Coire Glas Guest House management had unilaterally gone on strike
the week before, near the end of a busy season, and evening meals
were no longer available, so the gang had ventured into the village
and the Spean Bridge Hotel. This is a place I’ve passed many times
but never found inviting enough to go in - my loss. The staff were
sparse but friendly, the interior comfortable, the food good and in
Geoff-sized portions. And Mike Matthias definitely clicked with the
chatty waitress there.
Next
day, after a fine breakfast, we set out on the run. My original plan,
after sampling the delights of Sheena’s Tea Hut in Corran (well
worth the trip), was to visit Plockton, but after seeing hot suns on
the BBC’s weekend internet weather forecast I’d suggested, the
evening before, we go to Skye instead. That idea had been well
received and was still popular in the morning, despite the efforts of
the rain god.
So
the route we took was Spean Bridge to Invergarry, down Glen Garry and
Glen Shiel to Shiel Bridge, through Glenelg to Corran, back to
Glenelg for the ferry, over to Skye and Kyleakin then back over the
bridge to Glen Shiel and Spean Bridge. Superb roads and great views.
I’ll leave a description of the run to Heather, who was so moved by
the experience she felt inspired to prose. All I’ll add is that
I’ve crossed on the Glenelg ferry many times, usually with no more
than a relaxed hand on the bike while I watch the water for seals.
This was the first time I’ve had to stay seated on the bike, both
feet firmly on the deck and both hands gripping the handlebars. It
was a memorable crossing.
In
the evening, after drying out, it was back to the Spean Bridge Hotel
for more good food. We might have stayed for the disco, but when the
rugby club arrived and staff took the pictures off the walls we
thought discretion was best and took our drinks to the hotel lobby. A
good time was had by all.
Thanks
to Heather, Gordon, Ian, Allan, Mike, Alastair, Roy and Neil. I’ll
hand over to my glamorous assistant for her thoughts on the first
Autumn Weekend.

OK,
I was bored and made the mistake of saying so. That was as much as it
took to be lured into writing this piece.
Being
fairly new to the bike scene (sorry, they’re all just bikes to me),
I still feel slightly intimidated when attending one of your get
togethers but Spean Bridge proved to be a delightful weekend, maybe
not the sunniest on record but having been one of the intrepid number
at the Longest Weekend where I thought we might dissolve in
Applecross’s lashing rain, the weather this time was positively
Mediterranean, on a damp day!
It
started off well enough, leaving Invergordon in full sunshine late on
Friday afternoon. We had a brilliant run down by Loch Ness-side
which, though I was born and bred in the Highlands, never fails to
enchant me. Being introduced to so many tiny roads I didn’t know
existed is a definite bonus. We arrived at our very pleasant B &
B in early evening and for once I was able to have a conversation
without my teeth chattering. This is something of a rarity for me as
some of you may know! I was relieved to see mostly familiar faces
even though they were all males. Where were all the women? The first
gobsmacking moment came when Roy informed us he was too hot! The man
was at Applecross for heaven’s sake, is he never happy? Roy, I hold
you responsible for the downturn in the weather.
Next
morning we awoke to the familiar sound of falling rain but not
daunted we headed North West through glorious scenery until we
reached the end of the road at Corran. One cup of hot chocolate later
we’re back at Glenelg patiently awaiting the arrival of the ferry
to take us to Kylerhea on Skye. Watching it fight its way over the
short but very fast flowing crossing did not inspire me with much
confidence and I have to say I noticed most of my male colleagues
nipped behind a handy shed after they’d watched it a while! Too
much tea at Corran? Perhaps, or maybe they were nervous too. Anyway,
we made it over on the last ferry run of that day, the owner having
decided enough was enough. I felt slightly less of a wimp after that.
Skye
was its usual self in the rain, pretty misty but still impressive. We
headed straight for Kyleakin and lunch in a café which
overlooked the sea. I thought I was seeing things when some eccentric
emerged from the water having been in for a swim. It was lashing rain
but he still observed the formalities of towelling down before
getting dressed! Why? I’m not sure what happened to him, food took
my attention after that.
Taking
advantage of a brief break in the downpour we set off again over the
Skye Bridge, through Auchtertyre where I refrained from surprising my
parents with our little group, though I was sorely tempted to see the
look on their faces when eight bikes roared up to their front door.
Past Eilan Donan Castle, a familiar sight to anyone who has ever
owned a calendar, then a smooth run back to Spean Bridge and the
familiar smell of the “drying room”.
After
a reviving shower, no brown water here, we set off for the “long”
trek to the hotel where we had booked a meal, a direct result of the
success of their culinary skills the previous evening. Some of us had
learned a lesson and settled for one course, except for the odd dip
of a spoon into Mike’s Cullen Skink which he generously donated
when he saw the dish came in the size of a small wash basin! Eat your
heart out big Geoff. I don’t think even you could have managed two
bowls of that size. The meal was followed by a disco though I wasn’t
exactly inundated with offers to dance, a pity considering the
general lack of fitness of those around me. The exercise would
certainly have done some good and considering the anguished cries of
those facing the “long” walk home (it took approximately 5
minutes), I think I should have a few more candidates for my fitness
class – no plug intended - but bring your lycra to the next
meeting.
With
typical Scottish contrariness, the weather was lovely for the trip
home on Sunday – at least it was for our trip back to Ross-shire.
Has
the bad weather put me off? Not a bit of it.
See you next time, it
was good.